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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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"We 
PERFECT 

DRESSMAKING 

SYSTEM 






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COPYRIGHT 1914 

BY 
ELLA A. BENNETT 






/5/vf/^^ The Perfect 
Dressmaking System 



For cutting ladies', misses' and children's garments. The 
Perfect System is not a square or chart. It simply drafts every 
seam with an}^ tape measure to give perfect lines and perfect 
lit to any figure. 

The Perfect System insures what every woman of today; 
wants, good lines that are especially adapted to her figure as; 
well as a good fit. A garment may be made to fit with all 
the seams placed where they bring out every defect in the 
figure. ■ 

The Perfect System is a system that can not go out of style, 
for any style must have seams, and seams must come to the 
lines of the figure to insure a perfect garment. The Perfect 
System is the most simple, practical and inexpensive system 
in the world. It is simple because there is no changing, no 
matter what the size or figure may l)e. It is practical because 
you do not have to have a number of pasteboards or some 
other contrivance with you before you can cut a garment. It 
is inexpensive because you can use any tape measure. 

The Perfect System can be learned by any woman that 
knows how she wants her garments to look, even if she has 
never cut a garment in her life. 

Most women invest each year many times the price of the 
Perfect System in patterns, patterns that are not cut to their 
measures and naturally require changing, which is wearisome 
and often takes more time than the actual making of a 
garment. 



Before taking" the measure a line should be placed straight 
across the chest at the junction of the neck. One down center 
front from the junction of the neck to waist line. One down 
center of shoulder, and one from directly under the arm to 
Avaist line. One down center of back, and one straight across 
the back about four inches below the neck. 

The beginner should cut patterns from paper until they 
thoroughly understand the system before cutting a garment. 
So in case of any mistakes they can be easily rectified without 
wasting material. 

In cutting the waist front, take a paper about twenty-hve 
inches long and twenty inches wide, draw a line straight across 
this al^out four inches from top. See 2 to 4. Fig. 1. 

In cutting the back, take a paper about twenty inches wide 
and twenty-one inches long. Draw a line straight across this 
about six inches from top. See 2 to 4. Fig. 2. 

A\^atch the form and diagram in drafting patterns. 

It is much easier to just dot and number your measures on 
paper until you have taken all the necessary measurements, 
and then cut from dot to dot. 

All measurements should be taken just as the garment is 
wanted to fit ; if some parts are wanted loose and others tight, 
the measures must be taken that way. 

1. Xeck. — The depth is taken from the straight line at the 
shoulder to straight line at junction of neck 2 to 2. Width of 
neck is taken on straight line at junction of neck 1 to 1. But 
must be placed at top of neck and curved to center front line. 

2. Shoulder. — From neck at 1 to shoulder point at 3 gives 
the shoulder length, and from 4 to 4 gives shoulder drop. 

3. Arnieye. — The depth of the armeye should be taken just 
as low as desired, not leaving anything to trim out 4 to 5. 

4. Width of Front. — This is taken from center front line 
to line under the arm 6 to 6. This should come as high up as 
depth of armseye. Cut straight in half the distance from 4 
to 6 and gradually curve up to 4. 

5. \\^idth of Front at Waist Line. — This is taken from cen- 
ter front to line at under arm at 7 to 8. If unlined waist is 
desired 3 inches should be added to this measure to give full- 
ness at waist line, or 4 inches for dart in lining. 

6. Length of Front. — From the junction of the neck at 2 
to Avaist line at 7. 




7. Length of Uiulerarni. — From underarm on line u> waist 
line 6 to 9. 

8. Dart. — This is only to be used when tight lining is de- 
sired, not in general use with present styles. Measure back 



from center front and up from waist line to highest point of 
bust, then taken up tlie 4 inches allowed at waist line and 
taper out to highest part of dart 10. 




9. Neck. — Measure up center from line across the back 
2 to 2. Then the width from center back to line on shoulder, 
and from straight line up to shoulder on neck 1 to 1. 

10. Shoulder. — Use the measure for shoulder length that 
was taken for the front measure, and measure up from 4 to 4 
for shoulder drop. 

11. Armeye. — The depth of the armeye should be taken 
just as desired, not leaving anything to trim out. 4 to 5. 

12. Width of Back. — This is taken from center back line 
to line under arm 6 to 6. This should come as high up as 
depth of armeye. Cut straight in half the distance from 4 to 6, 
and then gradually curve up to 4. 

13. Width of Back at ^^'aist Line. — This is taken from 
center back to line at under arm 7 to 8. If unlined waist is 
desired 2 inches should be added to this measure to give full- 
ness at waist line. 

14. Length of Back. — From junction of neck at 2 to waist 
line at 7. 

14. Sleeve. — To give comfort and a good fit to the sleeve 
it must be cut to fit into the waist as well as fit the arm. 

Take a paper about twenty^-eight inches long and twenty 
inches wide. Draw a straight line down the center and one 
across eight inches from the top 1 to 1. 

15. ^Measure Around Arm. — Place the tape line loosely 
close up under the arm 1 to 1. (See Fig. 3.) Half of the 
measure should be placed on each side of straight line (down 
the center). 

16. Top Shape of Sleeve. — Pin the front and back pattern 
together at underarm, then place it at the lowest part of 
curve in the front on paper at right side of measure and on 
line 1. Then cut the same shape as armeye of waist up 
to 4 in back. Then unpin the waist pattern and place the 
front (pattern) at the lowest part of curve on paper at left 
side of measures and on line 1. This is not placed straight as 
for the right side, but is placed so the low^er part of pattern 
is brought back about two inches. Cut like the pattern to top 
of curve, then remove front pattern. 

17. Height of Sleeve. — Measure up center of arm from 
line around arm to point of shoulder, or to where the shoulder 
length was taken, then mark this measure up from straight 



/T^.S. 




line around the arm on center line 4 to 4. Then curve from the 
shape of armeye 5 to 5 to highest part of center measure at 4. 

18. Arm Length.— This should be taken from well up under 
the arm to hand 2 to 2. 



19. Bottom of Sleeve. — This measure should be taken loose 
over the largest part of the hand so the sleeve can be easily 
slipped on. Half of the hand, measure plus one is placed on 
the left side and half minus one inch is placed on the right 
side of center measure at bottom of sleeve length 3 to 3. 

20. Sleeve Shape. — Dot from measure at line 3 to largest 
part of arm measure 1 to 1. Fig. 3. 

If full sleeve is desired the fullness should 1)e added to the 
arm and hand size. 1 to 1 and 3 to 3. 



Skirts. 

The beginner should cut patterns from paper until they 
thoroughly understand the system. 

When taking the skirt measures the waist measure should 
be taken snug. The hip measure is taken seven inches below 
the w^aist line, and should be taken easy, but not loose. The 
front, side and back measures are taken from the waist line to 
the floor. This is to get the shape. Then if the skirt is to be 
shorter than the floor length it can be subtracted from the 
floor length. 

For practice use a five gored skirt in the following measures : 
25 waist, 40 hips, 38 front, 39 side and 39^^ inch back skirt 
length, and 2^ yards around the bottom. 

Five Gored Skirt. — Divide the w^aist measure and hip 
measure into five equal parts (for gores). You then have 5 
inches at the waist line and 8 inches at the hip line for each 
gore. The front gore which is twice the width of the top at 
the bottom, or 10 inches, leaves 17^ inches for each of the 
other four gores. 

As each gore is cut double, you just have three pieces in a 
five gored skirt pattern. See Fig. 4. 

As the skirt measure is 1^ inches longer in the back than 
the front, each gore must be ^^ inch higher at the l:>ack than 
at the front. See Fig. 4. The difference in skirt lengths from 
front to back must be made at the top, never at the bottom. 

1. Front Gore. — Fold paper in center for front gore, half 
of the gore measure is used for the front, as it is cut on the 
double fold. Measure back 2}^ inches at waist, and up >1 an 



inch, down 7 inches for hip depth, and back from center 4 
inches, then'38 down center front, 38^^ inches at back gore and 
5 inches wide at bottom. The front gore should be twice the 
width of the top at the bottom. 



F^o.f. 




2. Side Gore. — Measure back from the straight edge of 
paper 5 inches at the waist and up ^ inch, down 7 inches for 
hip depth and back 8 inches from straight edge. As the 
bias side of the front gore measures 38j/2 inches where th^ 
side gore is to join on. it must be cut 38j/^ inches long at" the 
back or bias side of the gore, and 17}^ inches wide at the 
bottom. 

3. Back Gore. — Measure back from the straight edge of 
paper 5 inches at the waist, and up }<^ inch, down 7 inches 
for hip depth and back from straight edge 8 inches. As the 
bias side of the side gore measures 39 inches where the back 
gore is to join on, it must be cut 39 inches long at the straight 
edge and 39^ inches long at the back or bias side of the gore, 
and 17^ inches wide at the bottom. 



/7^. S. 




Fig. 5 differs from Fig. 4 only in the skirt length. The 
front length is 1 inch longer in the front than in the side, and 



hich longer on the side than in the back. Each gore is cut 



/2 inch lower at the back or bias side at the top than it is at 
the front, <^-- J- • -^• 



See diagram in Fig. 5. 



7^/ V. ^ 




Fio- 6 differs only from Fig. 4 in the skirt lengths. Ihe 
frontTside and back being the same length, the gores are cut 
straight across at the top. Both sides of each gore will be 
the same length. 



Plaited or Gathered Skirts. 

The skirt shown in Fig. 7 is the same skirt shown in Figs. 
4, 5 and 6, but with allowance for one pleat at each seam and 
one at center back. Two inches are allowed on seam side 



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^ore""llf 1'-'\''' '■''' °' ''^^ S°''^ ^"d seam side of back 
gore. Also 4 inches at seam in center back. 

^11 gores are pinned together as for plain skirt and basted 
2 mches from edge, excepting back seam, which should be 
sewed up ,n a y, mch seam., then marked back 3j^ inches 

Fig. 8 




from. seam. See diagram in Fig. 7. Then this is brought over 



to center back to make plait. 

When plaited or gathered skirt is used, first find the exact 
size of each gore as for plain skirt. Then add plaits and 
gathers as desired. Fig. 8 shows skirt with two plaits at side 



/^/(7. 9. 



front gore and side (front) of back gore, and gathers at top 
of center (back). 

One Piece Waist. — Cut out the front and back pattern 
like Figs. 1 and 2. Pin these together at the shoulder line. 



. F/^. /o 




If the waist is to be opened in the back the front should 
be layed on the double fold of material. See Fig-. 9. The 
back may be laid on the double fold of material, leaving the 
seam in front. 

2. Place the measure loosely around the full part of the 
arm, half of this measure should come on each side of the 
back and front 1 to 1. The sleeve length should be taken 
from the shoulder point to desired length. If short sleeves are 
to be used they should not be tapered to the bottom 2 to 2. 
If long sleeves are desired they should be tapered from 1 to 1 
to hand measure at sleeve length 3 to 3. 

Diagram 1. Collars. — Pin the w^aist pattern together at 
the shoulder line. Then place the center back on the double 
fold of material. If a yoke is to be used in the front, mark 
the pattern the shape and depth of yoke desired. (See 
diagram.) Cut around the shape of neck in back and yoke 
in front. If no yoke is used, cut all around the shape of the 
neck. The collar may then be cut any shape or size. If square 
collar is to be used, as in diagram 1, lines 2 and 2 must .come 
at the same point on armeye. 

Diagram 2. Yokes. — Round or V shaped necks should be 
the same depth from the neck in the front and back 1 and 1, 
and any desired width on the shoulder, excepting around neck, 
Avhich should be the same width from the neck as the front 
and back depth. Mark on the pattern the size and style yoke 
desired. If the waist is to be opened in the back, the pattern 
should be pinned together at the shoulder and the center of 
the front laid on the double fold, then trace around the yoke 
and cut out in the neck and down the back. If the waist is 
to open on the side or in the front the back will have to be 
cut on the double fold of material also, which will require 
seams on the shoulder. Square yoke depths should be the 
same as in other yokes and the shoulder width not wider than 
the depth. A square yoke should be 1^ inches narrower at the 
bottom than at the shoulder line. See yoke in diagrams 3 and 4, 

Diagrams 3 and 4. Gibsons or Other Tucks. — If a gibson 
tuck is to be used a straight line should be placed from the 
point of the shoulder to the waist line so it follows the shape 
of the armeye to the curve. In the back the line should be the 
same distance from the underarm seam as at the arm. If the 
tuck is not to be used as a gibson, it must l)e put in a seam 
from the shoulder. 



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